Today was filled with adrenaline, multiple forms of transport, amazing food (snails anyone?) and lots of ice.
First, I have to credit our travel agent with finding this gem. I honestly never would have even considered visitng Chamonix had it not been an excursion offered by our travel agent, Anywhere But Here Travel. You all know what a planner and researcher I am but this is deinitely something i would not even have considered. We had an amazing day and really the whole experience is due to our decision to hire a travel agent.
We started the morning early with another fantastic breakfast at the Bristol Hotel. The bus station is literally around the corner from the hotel so it was an easy 1minute walk to find the bus. Thankfully it was marked in English with "Key Tours" but the one waiting was the regular bus (more of a transport) and not the excursion bus. We were just early; the correct bus arrived mninutes later and we boarded a luxury coach bound for France.
Our guide, Neil, explained the sights we were able to visit and the options in the area. He told us the basci parameters of the trip, and indicated that it is really up to us to do whatever we want, whenever we want. We thought we had purchashed the whoe day pass with lunch, tickets on the cogwheel train and the gondola but when Neil came around to see our ticket he pointed out that we had only the bus trip portion. Thankfully he was was able to take our debit card and charge us for the tickets that would allow us to access the transportation and major events in the area.
Then he started to explain that because the altitude is so high on Mont Blanc, he is not allowed to guide people up there each day. And that if we got sick and decided to come back early, we could meet him in the cafe. And how many people get ill at this elevation. Well, as much as I like Neil (who is a cross between a British Mr Rogers and Mr Bean), he completely freaked me out. My heart was pounding before we even exited the bus.
We were dropped off in Chamonix at Aguile Du Midi, which is a 2 part tram that whisks people to terrifying heights at the top of Mont Blanc. We started at around 1038 meters above sea level and and ended at 3843 meters or 12,602 ft above sea evel. Just typing that gives me the willies.
Tram #1 was a tradiotional swinging tram that took a relatively straight path up. There is razy skiiers here so they sardined us into the tram with about 20 other people.That was atcually a good thing as I got smashed in the middle and stared at Grady's chest the whole time. We exited this station which was 2317 m in the air, and promptly queued for the big "c" shaped tram. I am trying to describe the trajectory of this tram and essentially it is like a lazy / open C (or maybe a J). the tram takes off like normal, heading up at relatively parallel projection. Then it cuves sharply and heads directly up, kissing the rock face as it does. it was truly terrifying especially when one conisders we are in France now.
We made it safely up and i was shaking and found it difficult to take deep breathes. We dumped out immediatly onto an open air wood bridge that spans to the next building. Steep vistas drop off both sides and while yes there undoubtedly was a hand rail, i will tell you that my memory of this particular torture device had no sides and was covered in ice. And there was wind, and snow and people throwing knives at me. At least, that is how scared i was... in reality the day is stunning with sunshine and the bluest skies possible. I shuffled like a 90 year old lady across that death bridge while the boys laughed at me.
once inside the tunnel that has been blown into the mountain, i steadied. At least, momentarily, until we found ourselves outside again on another vista, this one with metal grated steps and open railing that I am assuming are to unobstruct the view. It was breath taking. truly. breath taking. Pictures, the few I got when my hands released from the railings momentarily, will never do the vista justice. It is probably one of the most awe inspiring panaromas i have witnessed. The power of those mountains and the height was outstanding.
One side is French and the other Italian. So technically we have now been in Amsterdam, Switzerland, France and Italy on this trip already.
The rest of my memories are a little foggy; lots of in and out of the tunnel to take in another stunning vista and Steve telling me i looked pale. In the midst of a stairwell exhibit on hypoxia i had to sit on the bench. My head was spinning and my legs felt like rubber; i felt like i was still on a swinging tram even though we were well situated on true granite. After some water and a Mento (a Swiss invention), i summoned the courage to take the elevator to the very top where the glass room exists for the truly deluded. The view was about 30 feet higher now and no less impressive. But the line for the actual room was long and we were running short on time so the boys settled for the waiting area for the room which was a glass floor. Good enough along with a photo of the sign indicating we made it to 3843 meters.
The ride down was so much better than the one up and as the oxygen returned I was able to enjoy the views of the valley below. How much of my nerves were the result of our guides warning i am not sure but I will say i was very happy to have had the experience and even happier to arrive at the bottom.
We decided to take the next hour or so and walk through the resort town of Chamonix. This little city is sort of a mix between Leavenworth and Whistler. Chalets and ski lodges are everywhere and souvenier stores are sandwiched next to high-end luxury or sporting stores.
We ended up at Le Cap Horn restaurant thanks to Trip Advisor. It was defintely a gourmet meal and our lunch included es cargot (amazeballs), crab salad, lobster mac`n cheese, roasted chicken breast and even an asian pork belly. Include some local French wine and sunshine filled (ok so some of us might have gotten sunburned) al fresco dining and you have a wonderful meal.
Next up was the cogwheel train Montenvers to De Mer Glace. This was phenomal but also stress inducing. Neil told us it was a lot of stairs and he was NOT kidding. The stairs in themselves created some work but it was the presence of hundreds of skiiers finishing a day on the glacier that really clogged things up.
After a leisurely ride on the old red cogwheel train up an entirely new mountain, we emerged to note that we had to take a tram down to the glacier. Another steep tram (vertical) and we unloaded to hundreds of skiers waiting to ride the tram back up. I instantly did the math and realized we needed to hustle to get back to our bus in time to make it back to Geneva today.
The walk down consisted of more open grating and the occassional flat area where slower people could step off. But really you are are the mercy of the person in front of you. Walking down the stairs we nearly got hit by skies attached to the backs of skiers who were now shlepping up 450 stairs after navigating galcier snow. i tell you what, i give these people a LOT of credit. I was sweating and exhausted just hiking those stairs with a small backpack, let alone with skies on my back, poles in my hand and heavy boots on my feet.
After 450 steps down, we made it to the tunnel carved into the glacier. It was a beautiful hue of blue that is lit with occassional lights and had some ice benches and cubby holes for selfied. Thanksfully it wasn't too long and we were back on the steep stair climb up. I think it took s 30 minutes to hike back up and then we waited another 20 in line for the overpacked tram. Once at the top we missed the first train back as it was full so we had to wait for the next one. We arrived back in Chamonix with 20 minutes to spare. Phew. I hate to think about what we would have done if we were late. They don`t hold busses or trains here, as Neil made clear.
We are now on the bus, headed back to Geneva for our last night there. The hour long ride is nearly over and the boys are either asleep or playing with a new rubikscube purchased at the top of Mont blanc. It is a bit of a mind warp to consider all that we saw and did today. Aain, thanks to Justin for finding options that never would have been on our radar.
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