Friday morning brought sunshine to the Alps as we said goodbye to Interlaken and headed north towards Zurich. The pass through Lucerne was still covered in snow but the roads were much easier to drive (no snow on those at least). The scenery was stunning as we meandered our way up the pass with switchbacks and tunnels that look like a pretzel on the nav system.
We arrived at the Rhine Falls about 2 1/2 hours later, ready for a break and having no idea what we were about to walk down to see. The Rhine Falls are like little Niagra Falls in that they are powerful and they divide countries (in this case Germany and Switzerland). We climbed down stairs to observe the mashing of water from various platforms, the final one cantilevered out over the falls so that you can stare the water storm in the face. It gives you the odd impression that you are about to be swept away but just as the waves are about to touch you, they fall under the platform. It was loud, little wet and chilly but also very cool. There was an odd little museum at the castle that overlooks the falls but it was all in German so we didnt stick around too long. It did have unique animated futniture and paintings timed to move you through the building that once housed a famous family.
After grabbing a quick meal of sausage, beer and fries, we hopped back in the car and made our way into Zurich city to find the FIFA museum. Steve was the main reason we are visiting this museum honoring the flawed but impactful soccer organization. The museum itself was pretty interesting and very interactive. After walking through a display of each team uniform and a timeline of FIFA, we went downstairs to the trophy room and key momorabilia from famous players or games. You could try you hand at being an announcer, take selfies with different backdrops and view models of the stadiums. Each cup was featured in a segment and then we watched a brief video that included key moments in the game. The last floor was a giant life-size version of pinball, where you kick soccer balls into targets, up ramps, around defenders and ultimately at several mushroom shaped pinball targets that richocheted the soccer balls everywhere. The boys and Steve especially found this to be the most entertaining piece and they were sweaty when we finally emerged from the musuem. The museum never touched on the corruption of its leadership, but I am not too surprised by that.
The Storchen (Storken) hotel where we stayed is likely one of the nicest boutique hotels i have experienced to date. It sits on one of the main rivers in old town Zurich, adjacent the Wine Market Plaza. Our rooms (2, adjoining) were at the top floor (5th) and had windows that opened to the square below. Other amenities that made this a hotel worth noting:
Amazing service from each and every person we encountered
Automated blinds that sealed off every ounce of light if you desired
Warmed floor in the bathroom
Bed with remote to raise and lower your head or under knees
Best breakfast buffet we encountered (and we had great ones)
Champaign and chocolates upon our arrival and chocolates every night at turndown
Great coffee, high end soaps/shampoos and every kit you can imagine (shoe shine, dental, sewing, nails, etc.)
A cell phone they encouraged you to take out into the city and use during your stay
The location of the hotel also makes this spot extra special. It is located in the pedestrian district which means we had to drive over cobblestone and around people as the only cars allowed to be there are those dropping off or delivering. It also is the host hotel for a Guild, which means that during the End of Winter festival in Zurich, this place is home to a giant block party filled with people dressed in costume (more on that later).
Only one room was ready when we arrived because the previous occupant stayed late (i understand why) so we dropped off our bags and headed to the train station to return the van. After being reminded we needed to return it full of diesel (oops, thats right), we quickly fueled it up and returned the van to EuropCar.
Then, Rick Steves book in hand, I led us on a walking tour of downtown Zurich that included several statues, historic landmarks, overlooks and churches. Eventually we found our way back to the hotel which is one of the last points on the walking guide. On another recommendation from Rick Steves, we went to a restaurant called Zeitgeister only to hear the wait was a few hours. Second choice we stopped in at Zur Kulm. The hostess originally told us that we would have to wait until 9 pm but as we walked away she came running after us and said if we could eat in under 2 hours she could squeeze us in.
It turns out that this restaurant is the last standing of 5 beer halls designed and built in the manner of King Ludwig style, several hundred years ago. This essentially means the entire ceiling was painted and a relief of various angels and beer makers, frolicking and playing instruments or pranks on one another. The vibe was Bavarian at its highest and the food followed suit. Sausages, bratwurst, schnitzel and beer. The hostess said she felt like she had to find us room because we are from out of town ans may never experience a hall like this one.
Upon returning to the hotel we noticed a lot of commotion and activity in the square. Bands of drummers were dueling and then going on walks around the city. People were following them and the energy level was contagious. After tucking the boys in and making sure they had the hotel provided phone to call,us if needed, steve and I set out to roam the cobblestones.
We followed a few drummer groups, happened upon 4 flute players and wound up in the city square where several tents housed live bands, hundreds of people and lots of beer. We joined in the fun and wandered through the town for a bit longer.
The hotel told us tomorrow is going to be crazy with the festival.
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